Onion skins and Easter eggs. Eco friendly DIY colouring

Ester is only a little more than a week away and I am sure just like most hostels ours will be full of backpackers and other funny creatures looking for a good time and maybe even some Easterly fun.
Here is my one of my favourite things to do in a hostel (or where ever else I am) for Easter.

Colouring Easter eggs. Of course you can just get out the arts and crafts box (you don't have one? EVERY HOSTEL NEEDS ONE!) and let everyone be creative and see what they come up with. Or you can buy die and dip the eggs into that and have the classic shades of Easter eggs.
My favourite way to colour eggs though, is one I learned from my late grandmother: Onion skins! It's cheap, different, it's eco friendly and so DIY!

How you ask? Pretty easy actually. When being boiled the skins release the pigment, that makes them brown and turn the eggs a really pretty shade of red-ish brown. But here is the step by step guide:

Collect the dry brown onion skins for a while, depending on how many eggs you want to die you may want up to a small shopping bag full of skins. Make sure you store them in a basket or something similar airy that will prevent the skins from growing mold, should there be any moisture left in them. If you're living or working in a hostel it's pretty easy get your hands on that many onion skins. Just ask around, let people know what your are up to, maybe even organise an onion soup competition or make "tarte du flambet" for everyone (yum!).

You will also need some flowers, leaves and maybe grass blades as well as a pair of tights (they can be cheap or even old, since their going to be boiled don't worry too much about germs). Yes, they will survive the boiling water.

Carefully take your raw eggs and place flowers, leaves and grass blades on your eggs. I usually just put them on one side which is going to be the front, but if you want you can put them all around the egg.

Now comes the fiddly part: cut off a piece of your tights and wrap it tightly around the entire egg. Tie the ends together, but remember, be careful the egg is still raw. Where the knot it sitting you will get a pretty cool thai die effect.

Once all your eggs are decorated and covered in tights, place the eggs in a large pot, add the onion skins and cold or lukewarm water and bring the whole thing to boil. Since you probably want hard boiled eggs, let the whole thing boil for about 8 minutes. Stir the whole thing every now and then, so all sides of your eggs get a bit of colour. Be careful not to get any of the onion water on your clothes since it might leave stains you won't get rid of.

Take out the eggs and hold them under cold water for about 30 seconds. That will make it easier to peel them later on and to touch them to get off the tights. Which is my favourite part, because until the tights and flowers are off you never know how your eggs turned out.

If you want to make them nice and shiny you can rub some oil or butter on them. 

Edinburgh on a budget - things to see and do

Edinburgh Castle

As I mentioned in the beginning of this series, Edinburgh is a tourist town and a lot of things are quite pricey. And the tourist attractions are no exception of course. You pay around £15 for one person for the Edinburgh Castle and that doesn't even include a guided tour or refreshments, the same goes for Holyrood Palace or Mary King's Close. There are a few occasions like St. Andrew's Day or The Edinburgh Advent Calender where at least some of the main attractions are free but of course they are over crowded and it can be a pain wanting to see them.


Here are my favourite free things to do in and around Edinburgh:

The National Museum
No matter if you are all grown up, still in contact with your inner child or even traveling with children, there is interesting stuff for everyone. Of course you can learn about Scotland's history, but also Animals, Space, Geology and lot's more. And there are things do to for kids in every room. One time I went in there with a 5 year old kid I was babysitting and I had to drag her out of there at 5pm when they closed, because she had so much fun. And the best thing: IT'S FREE (unless it is special, limited exhibitions).

The National Gallery
Located right next to Princess Street the National Gallery is spread out over two Roman (or is it Greek?) looking temples with big columns. The building closer to the Old Town shows pictures from all major Masters: Rubens, van Gogh, Titian... you name it, they have it. I am by no means an art expert but I was impressed by the collection, especially since just like the Museum it's FREE!
In the lower part of the same building you find the Scottish collection which also hosts some impressive paintings, some of personal favorites are among them. 
The other building hosts modern art. I have to admit I haven't been in that one yet, as the first one already almost an entire day to explore, but from what I have heard it is just as impressive as the the one with the old masters.
There are other Galleries in Edinburgh, some of them are free as well and worth visiting in my opinion like the Portrait Gallery and the Dean Gallery. There is even a shuttle bus going between the different galleries and they also offer classes with renown artists (which are not free unfortunately).

The Free Walking Tour
Actually there is more than just one company but New Europe are the original and have been doing free tours in Edinburgh since for ever, so they are the ones I recommend. They meet twice - in summer three times - a day in front of the Tron Kirk from where they start their tour which covers some the most interesting stories from Edinburgh's history as well as the most important sights in Edinburgh's upper Old Town, the Grassmarket and area aroung Greyfriar's Kirkyard. The guys who do these tours do that for a living, so they expect a little tip at the end of their tour. Give generously if you can so they can keep doing a good job.

Carlton Hill

View from Carlton Hill towards north

If you walk around Edinburgh's city centre you will at some point see the strange temple like structure or the tower up on Carlton Hill. It is a popular view point for tourists as you get amazing views over the city, Arthur's Seat, the Pentland hills and even down to the Firth of Fourth, many festivities happen up there like Beltane and the end of the torch procession a day before New Year's Eve.
In summer people like to sit in the grass or on the benches, having a picnic. And the good thing is that it is by far not as exhausting to get up there as to it's big brother Arthur's Seat.

Arthur's Seat

Arthur's Seat is the biggest hill down in Holyrood Park. Too steep and narrow and too many cliffs make it impossible to build houses on it has become the mini Highlands in Edinburgh's city centre. People use it as free gym, view point for all kinds of occasions, to walk their dogs or just to go and see something green between all the grey and more grey of the city.
In one story we learn that Arthur's Seat was the seat of a giant named Arthur who had a party on the Isle of Skye who threw his seat all the way to Edinburgh and that's where it still is to this day. More modern interpretations are that it is an inactive volcano (which is quite exciting in my opinion as well).



Portobello

Fun times in Portobello

Portobello is a small coastal town to the north east of Edinburgh
but is so close that you can easily walk there (takes about an hour from the Royal Mile) or take he local bus. In fact many people consider it part of Edinburgh. With it's beach and little shops in the town centre it is perfect for a lazy afternoon away. Take the kids, if you have any, build a sandcastle, have some ice cream and collect some shells. It's a little holiday from your holiday.



Cramond Island
It's a little Island in the Firth of Fourth but further to the west then Portobello. Take bus no.41 to Cramond from there you can walk across a causway to the Island, if the tide is low. Make sure to check the times of the tide, as you don't want to get stuck on the Island or even worse get caught in the returning water on the causeway. I also recommend proper shoes, like trainers because the causeway for one is from World War II and slowly crumbling away and the Island itself has a few lumps and bumps. But it is a cool little Island with some medieval ruins covered in trees and a bunch of World War II buildings which are now abandoned and used by locals during parties on the Island.
Since the 80s the punk scene takes over the Island for one weekend in August where they carry instruments, generators, amps, food and drinks across the causeway for a one of a kind DIY festival.

Forest Cafe
If you are looking for evening entertainment have a look what's going on at the Forest Cafe. Quite often they have (live) music and usually it's free. You can bring your own booze but have to pay a little fee per bottle you bring in.

Banshee Labyrinth
A really cool and spooky kind of venue half way between pub and club which has often free live music and parties but also a free cinema, where they show a variety of films. From good old Ghost Busters to the Avengers...

Edinburgh on a budget - food

Last time we got accommodation sorted, this article will make sure that you won't go hungry, even if you are on a tight budget.

THE most important tip would be, don't go where there are a lot of tourists. With very few exceptions restaurants, pubs and coffee shops in the pretty and busy areas are pricey.  But usually you only have to go a few hundred meters and you'll find what you're looking for, just less expensive.

I should also mention that I know the area around the Old Town way better than the New Town. So if you have any suggestions for food in the New Town, let me know. In this article I will mainly feature places in the Old Town.

When you are out and about on the Royal Mile the cheapest way to get some grub in your belly is probably the supermarket, especially if you are two people or more. On South Bridge you'll find a Sainsbury's and a Tesco's, the latter one is usually cheaper. But if you just keep walking another five minutes up the road you'll find a Lidl which is the cheapest. All of these shops have a little bakery section, sandwiches, fruit, cakes and drinks. Just grab whatever looks good to you and sit down in a park like the Medows or Princess Street Gardens.
If you are in the New Town there is Sainbury's in the East End of Rose Street and a Co-op in Frederick Street, there is also a Marks and Spencers on Princess Street but it is more expensive than the other two.
And of course, if you are staying at a hostel or couchsurfing, you can buy ingredients for dinner there as well.

But what, if you there is just no way you can eat somewhere outside because it is cold, wet and simply miserable? Here are a few cheap options to sit in. Again, I know the Old Town better than the rest of town.

Just off the Royal Mile is Cockburn Street (they pronounce it Coburnstreet, haha) and at the very top is The Baked Potato Shop aka the hottest tattie in town. A small baked potato and 2-3 fillings are usually enough to fill your belly. I sometimes still make the mistake to take a regular one and end up with more than I can eat. Oh well, leftovers for another time. Unfortunately the Baked Potato Shop only has one small table so there isn't always space to sit in. But maybe the people already sitting there are nice enough to scoot over and share the table. Time to make new friends.

Just a few yards (or metres) down Cockburn street is a close going down to the train station, you'll find a Kurdish Doner Kebab place called YamYam's. And no matter, if you sit in or take away they are cheaper than the chip chops (or chippy as we call them here) on the Royal Mile (Clam Shell) or South Bridge (Pizza Paradise, although, they rock because they are open till 5am). And if you are around for a while and they start to recognize you, you might get a discount. I sometimes do ;-)

On South Bridge there is an Asian Noodle place called Yokoko. They are very well known for really bad service but somehow I find that entertaining and the cheap meals make up for it. It certainly isn't the best meal you will ever have in your life but £10 for a starter, a main and a drink is extremely cheap considering how close it is to all the attractions in town.

Just a 5 minute walk up the road from Yokoko is the Mosque Kitchen which is actually close the Mosque. There is the new and fancy looking one which apparently is a bit more expensive than the old one. To get to the old one you basically have to go into the new ones backyard. Again, I have never been there myself but I have been told that you get a huge plate full of good food for very little money.

Should you find yourself in Tollcross and you suddenly get hungry make your way to The Forest Cafe. It is right on the big cross road in the newish brick building. It is a lovely artsy volunteer run place which offers amazing food, interesting people and quite often free events.

Also in Tollcross is Killer Restaurant which is an Indian buffet restaurant with a small but very tasty selection of well known Indian dishes. Dinner is just £10 and you can eat as much as you like and lunch is available for only £6. The interior is rustic-hip and the staff are really nice. You can bring your own booze and the soft drinks are super affordable as well.  

On Monday nights you can go to a pub on the bottom of the Royal Mile called Kilderkin you can get pizza for only £1. The catch is that you have to buy a drink for at least £1.70 but still for only 2.70 you basically get an entire meal. The pizzas are not fancy or big, but you definitely get more value for your money that you'd might expect. And I like the pub itself. They always play great music and it's one of the few places actually in the Royal Mile that offer cheap food. Even it it's just once a week.

Hidden in a tiny street in the New Town just off North Bridge is a place called Snack Cafe. I have never been there myself but I have been told they have extremely cheap food and the quality is better than you might expect from a place that cheap. It is a well known secret here in Edinburgh.

I am sure over time I will come across more cheap and good food places and might write a second article about them. Until then, let me know, if you have any suggestions. I am happy to check them out!

Black gold

Hello, my name is Lisa. I am addicted to coffee.
I don't know exactly how long this has been going on but I would guess 15-20 years.
My whole family are coffee junkies, my mom, my dad, even my gran. The first thing we do when we get up in the morning is to go to the kitchen and switch on the coffee machine. You know the one where you put the paper filter in the top and then the coffee grounds and the water goes in the back.
It doesn't matter who gets up first, he or she just makes enough coffee for everyone, takes a cup and fills the rest into a flask so there is enough at least until breakfast. And trust me that won't be the last time the coffee machine is running in one day. We drink coffee no matter what time of the day. I don't think any of us have problems sleeping after a cup of coffee.

Coffee has just always been part of my family, there is no time in my memory when there was no coffee. When I was little my mom would work night shifts so she would get up in the afternoon just after I got home from school and I would already have the coffee running. At that age, I didn't even drink any yet, but I already knew how the coffee machine worked. In fact I was too small to reach everything I needed, so I had to get a stool and climb onto the kitchen counter. I think I was about 8 or 10 at that point.

I can't remember when I first started drinking coffee. I know that when I moved out and into my first flat share at the age of 17 I already had a coffee maker. Or at least a filter you could put your grounds in, then you pour water and let it drip into your cup or flask. At a friends house a couple of years later I first tried coffee out of an espresso maker you know the ones you put on a stove. I learned to like that stuff, too and even bought one for my travels, because I can't stand instant coffee. I only drink that stuff when there is nothing else. It's for baking or lazy kids who just moved out from mom's, but eventually they will find their way back to the good stuff. 

But that's the problem here in the UK, there is (almost) nothing else. I have worked in nurseries and babysat in families and only one family had a proper coffee machine. ONE in maybe 20 or more places I have been. Hostels are the same unless you have longterm guests who love their coffee as much as I do. Unfortunately I lost my wee espresso maker while traveling, so I bought a french press. It has been replaced a few times, since those things are mainly made of glass they break easily, but I couldn't live without it. And my friends and colleges here at the hostel know it. My boss knows not to talk to me, until I had a cup of coffee. When people don't get an answer when they say hello, they know that I didn't have any coffee yet. Sometimes someone starts talking to me and chewing my ear off and I just tell to fuck off and that I didn't have coffee yet, and they apologies, even though I was the bitch. They even post funny pictures of how I am without and with coffee on my facebook wall like this one here. I even had a cup that said "wake up and smell the coffee", it broke my heart when it broke the other day. Such a great cup!

And cake and coffee just go together so well, it's actually a thing in Germany. If you invite someone over for coffee, it is usually at three in the afternoon and there will be some sort of cake of biscuit involved. That is just a fact. And never ever will you get instant coffee anywhere.

But it's more than just a drink or a way to wake up. I am not even sure, if coffee helps me with that, I think it has more to do with comfort. There is nothing better than during or after a night shift or a night out than sitting on the front steps of the hostel with a cup of coffee and a cigarette and enjoy the peace and quiet before the city wakes up and watch the sun rising. Coffee is warm and delicious and somehow soothing even though it increases your heart rate. I think it reminds me of good times with my family or friends....

a life of goodbyes

Life as a traveler is beautiful. The things you see and learn and the people you meet... it's hard to describe, if you have never traveled. Your mind has to open up, if you want to enjoy the ride, otherwise you just keep comparing what you see and do to what you already know and can't appreciate the fact, that although something is different it can also be good, especially when it comes to people. Because everyone has a different cultural socialization, not only depending on where they or their parents come from but on many different factors.

I think for a lot of travelers this is a natural process and they end up with friends from all over the world. And just by hanging out with people from other countries you can learn so much about the culture and the history of other countries. These are the kind of lessons no book, no teacher, no school could ever teach you.

And with some of these people you become really good friends. You travel with them for a while or share a dorm, you meet them at the kitchen table of your new hostel or the pub crawl and meet up again the next day or you might have surfed their couch or you're both working at the same shitty bar, because you ran out of money. No matter how you've met and how long you've known each other but with some of them you click in a beautiful way that makes you smile just thinking about them. It doesn't even have to be in a romantic way. You just love hanging out with them and getting to know them. And you become friends, like the best of friends. Friends you never ever would have met, if hadn't gotten on that plane and left home to go on an adventure. And for a while these new friends are part of that adventure.

But since you, maybe even both of you are on the road it means that you will part eventually. It's just the way it is as a backpacker. You move on, to see new exiting places and meet new people. And you have to say goodbye to the people you've met. Sometimes that part seems to be hardest when you're  traveling. You wish you could just shove your new friends in your backpack and take them with you but the only way you will be able to stay in contact with them is through the internet. I hate to say it, but thank god for Facebook. Over time you lose contact to them. Their faces become blurrier in your mind and the moments you've shared are not as clear in your memories as they once were, eventually you even forget some of those people. 

But a few of these friendships and relationships might last. I know a few people that have met at one hostel or another and they are still friends, still talk online, skype a lot and visit each other every now and then, even though they are continents apart. I know people that have become lovers, are still together and even might get married and have children one day - or already have. Some of these people are from the same country, some are from different continents, but somehow they have found a connection despite all differences... they would have never met, if they hadn't been traveling.

There are a lot of people I have met along the way and had to say goodbye to over the years and there will be many more. Sometimes it is brutal, because they've really become loved ones. And I wonder what they are up to now and if I will ever see them again, if they ever think of me...

summer time and the living is easy

It's summer in Scotland. Well as summer as it gets here. The temperatures are rarely higher that 20C and there is no guarantee that there will be sunshine, but we appreciate every bit of it and the parks are full of people and BBQs as soon as you don't have to wear gloves and a winter coat anymore.

At the beginning of June we had the Medow's Festival, a volunteer run free festival with lots of music, all kinds of food and lots of stalls that offer arts and crafts and vintage goods. On Saturday it started out really nice, the sun was shining, the music was good, we brought blankets and drinks and were having a ball. Unfortunately we weather suddenly turned and it started raining like it was the end of the world. And it didn't stop. For hours.

Our blankets became rain ponchos, sitting on the ground was a no-no and half of us just went home, because... well, they're afraid of water coming out of the sky....

But in the end some of us ended up staying till almost the very end and it was so worth it, because we ended up dancing to some ska band in the mud and the pouring rain and it was so much fun.

I mean we were soaked afterwards. I could literally wring my dress afterwards and when we got home we all went straight for the showers so we could warm up.

But that didn't keep up from going again the next day. And this time the weather was fabulous, I might have even gotten a little sunburn.

This time we actually really had a look at all the stalls and I am really hoping I will have the resources next year to have a stall of my own. We bought hundreds of Trivia Pursuit cards, because we love to have little quiz nights and we watched people dress up in card board armor and beat the shit out of each other. Which really looked like a lot of fun.

It is incredible what the Medow's Festival team organises each year for absolutely free. You really have stuff for every one. There are dog shows, kids areas, carnival rides, lots and lots of music, arts and crafts and vintage stalls, local food, hair dressers and so much more.


If you are ever in Edinburgh at the beginning of June make sure to catch the Medow's Festival. It's a blast!

around the world

I have friend. Her name is Shannon. She is from Canada. She used to live in the hostel. She has a blog, too. She talks about hostel life, too. And traveling in general. She's been on the road since February now. In Europe, Israel and Morocco.She takes lots of pretty pictures. Sometimes I even end up in some of them.

Here's the link:

http://travellingcanuk.blogspot.co.uk/

Have fun!

A wee bit more about all this.
So, we've got the basic introduction out of the way. phew!

As I said before: I live and work in a hostel:

It is a place where (mostly young) people stay while they are traveling. They are traveling for different reasons.
Most of the people are tourists on a budget. They don't mind sharing a room with a bunch of other people, sleeping in a bunk bed and not having a bathroom to themselves, because quite often it means that this is the only way they are able to actually see a country. They don't have the budget for a hotel, so they stay with us.
Others study for a semester or two abroad and the hostel is their first stop on the way to finding a flat.
A lot of the travelers I meet here are on work-and-travel visas. These people are between 18 and early 30s, they often just finished high school or uni or are taking a gap year before settling down and becoming real grown ups. Most of them come from Australia, New Zealand or Canada. A lot of them come and go. They are on the way to the highlands and have a little stop in Edinburgh before that. Others are looking for jobs and a flat and some just stick around for a few months.
And then there are people who are a little bit like work-and-travel people, they just don't travel as much. And I guess I am one of those. We come to a new country and don't leave. A lot of us stay in the hostel for years and years. We live in dorms, like all the other guests, quite often we work for accommodation at the hostel. We know the building inside out and are part of the furniture. I am not sure why that is.

There are good and bad sites to living and working in a hostel.
The cool thing is, that you make new friends all the time and meet people from all over the world. I think in the past couple of years, I've learned a lot about different cultures, politics and local customs, just by listening to people's conversations. People also tell you about the places they come from or they have visited. Often you find someone who has been to the place you are about to go to and they can give you tons of useful information. People cook the most delicious food and you get to try authentic Spanish or Nepalese food. You have the chance to learn new languages. In Edinburgh there are always Spanish people, so even if you don't really care about it you will learn at least a few words. You also learn to appreciate  things you used to take for granted. Like a bathtub or a room to yourself. You become more humble.

But as I said, it can be tough, too. Because with that many people in such a small amount of space, there will be conflict. It can be small stuff like someone putting their suitcase in front of your locker to crazy stuff like two girls liking the same guy. There is always drama.
People are usually young and like to go out or having drinks at the hostel, it often doesn't end well. We all have had to hug the loo and work hungover.
But the two things that can really break you are the noise and the lack of privacy.
I grew up in a village so small, I could tell by the sound of the car engine who was driving down the street. Here at the hostel every one has a different schedule. Since I am working nights, I sleep during the day. Or at least I try. Today I was woken around noon, by one of our guests playing the guitar and singing. And he wouldn't stop. Frustrating, so say the least. Naps are very popular here, because your night is often way to short.
The lack of privacy is inconvenient for different reasons: quite often you just need some time for yourself. You don't want to be available for anyone and do your own thing. Difficult! Especially in  small hostel like the one I live in. We share everything, from cups to colds. You can put your headphones in and ignore everyone, but it only works to an extend.
No privacy is also hard if you want to do private things, like with another person... (or yourself for that matter). Sure you can go to the bathroom, lock yourselves in a shower and be VERY quiet, but how romantic is that. And even if you manage to quiet as mice, someone will see you coming out of the bathroom together aaaaaaand you're busted. The whole group will know within 24 hrs what's going on. There are no secrets...

So where do I fit in?
I have been in this particular hostel for more than 2.5 years but have lived in hostels far longer than that. I started out as someone who wanted to see the world but got stuck. So I see travelers come and go, make new friends and lose them again, knowing that I will see them again. Because one day I am going to make it out of here and visit them all.